Toledo, part two,

Palm Sunday -- Semana Santa -- Holy Week

:: April 10 - 17 ::

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While we had not specifically planned to be in Toledo for Palm Sunday and Holy Week, our dates coincided with that week on the liturgical calendar and with the journeys of thousands of other visitors who did come to celebrate or witness the week or several of its hours. 

Our comfortable Hotel Eurico on narrow Calle San Isabel, near  the Cathedral, happened to be on several procession routes. The small balcony in our room overlooked the street, a perfect viewing spot, even for the midnight and 2 am processions. 

From Palm Sunday through Easter Sunday, Toledo carried out twenty solemn processions (pasos). Some were daytime, but most happened in the evening or deep into the night--even midnight and 2  AM. 

On decorated litters, Costaleros (members of Catholic brotherhoods and sisterhoods)  carry  life-size sculptures of Jesus or Mary depicting episodes of the Passion of Christ. Bands with drums accompany these pasos through the narrow streets. Devout viewers join and follow the procession. 

On Good Friday we were awakened around 1 AM to the sound of canes tapping as the silent procession of people wearing dark hoods passed following the bearer of a single silver cross.

At 1 AM Sunday a small chorus of runners sped by announcing "hallelujah!", singing the news that Jesus had risen. We had no trouble waking to the loud chant-in-song, but only Marney was fast enough to get a glimpse.

Easter morning the Cathedral bells tolled for several minutes.  Both Jesus and Mary were paraded from the nearby monastery, down our street, accompanied by bugles and drums.

After a two-year suspension due to Covid, these  centuries-old traditions continue.

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