Madrid

:: April 26 - 29 ::

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A short train ride from Segovia and we arrived in Madrid; our first and last brief visit here was 13 years ago.

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From our observations, the city is making strides with infrastructure improvements. As a visitor, It feels easier to get around on foot or by public transport. The Metro stations have been revitalized with color, light and easy-to-use signage. 

While bike lanes are minimal compared to the growing European standard, the increase in pedestrianized space is notable and commendable. A worker in a café where we stopped for coffee explained how the business owners had protested loudly when parking places were replaced by wider sidewalks and plazas until the businesses experienced increased business with this change. When we say "pedestrianized" we don't necessarily mean "pedestrian-exclusive".  Cars, bikes, scooters, delivery trucks, and buses may be allowed, but pedestrians are the royalty.

We stayed in a hotel on Calle Postas (Petit Palacio Posada de la Peine) around the corner from the bustling Plaza Mayor where the equestrian statue of Phillip III sits high in the center. We had a great crepe (Mimi's) shop below us among many restaurants within a stone's throw. The San Miguel Market just behind the plaza, in addition to usual market fare, offers a huge variety of tapas, as well as beautiful pastries and other sweets.

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The weather both days was somewhat rainy and cool. We appreciated our proximity to the Sol metro station for getting around town. Less for rain than for mood, we were more into relaxation than tourism. We are happy with our indoor choices.

New to us was the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum, a private collection of art that was sold by the owner to the state so it could be accessible to the public, Walking through these galleries is like reopening an art history textbook . The museum features displays of prominent and not-so-prominent artists from the 13th through 20th century, with several rooms of works by American painters .

The next day, we returned to the Reina Sofia contemporary art museum that we had so enjoyed on our previous visit. The galleries here are organized by themes, like cubism, modernism or surrealism, and alongside the paintings are concurrently running films or videos, posters, photographs, books or other displays that show the social settings for the artwork. Picasso's painting, Guernica, about the horrors of war, attracts the largest crowds. Bob remembers fondly seeing it in Boston before it returned to Spain after Franco's death. (No photographs are allowed in this section.) We enjoyed seeing the preliminary Picasso sketches for parts of this masterful painting. What a wonderful couple of hours wandering the rooms, soaking in a fraction of the work on display.

 Marney ventured out alone to tour the huge, opulent, extravagantly decorated Royal Palace where (for centuries) Spanish kings and queens lived. (Such places offer no attraction to Bob.)  Aside from the entry staircase, no photos were allowed. This enormous space, now mostly a museum for tourists, is used today for royal occasions, state official functions and major receptions.

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This visit to Spain is over. We are grateful to have been able to share some Spain days with Kristin, Benny, Korcho and Sinta. We have enjoyed a variety of colorful landscapes and medieval city centers. We appreciate the kind, helpful strangers we have met. We leave with more lasting memories of this beautiful country. 

 

On to Avignon for a few days before heading north to Brussels.